All of our springs are made of a higher quality wire, this allows us to produce a lighter, more stable product. The purchase of higher quality wire has allowed us to fine tune the stress relief process and remove most of the residual stresses that occur in wire when wound into a spring.

Therefore, we are now able to manufacture a product that will sag less, travel more and are less likely to break. The Signature Series springs are further processed and finished for an even higher quality spring than the normal stock.

Recommended Preload

Standard preload for full size dirt bikes – 3 to 10 mm

Standard preload for road bikes – 0mm for sport bikes, up to 25mm for cruisers. Top out spring fully compressed

Standard preload for 80cc mini dirt bikes – 5 mm

Notes on preload: The amount of preload required depends on the sprung weight of bike and rider, the rate of the spring, the front to rear weight bias, the fork angle and personal preference. There is no magic preload number. If you like the feel of the bike with less or more preload than these guidelines, great. More preload means the front and sits higher. This will make the bike turn slower. Less preload means the front end sits lower. This will make it turn quicker and it will feel softer and bottom easier (though spring rate has a bigger effect on bottoming than preload does). Higher oil level does not affect static sag but does increase bottoming resistance.

Determining the preload spacer length

External top-out – Assemble the forks without the springs and spacers. Install the emulator (if used). Extend the fork all the way. Drop the spring and spring washer into the fork tube. Use a tape measure to record the distance from the top of the fork tube down to the top of the spring washer. Measure the fork cap height from the bottom of the sealing lip (the point that touches the top of the tube when the cap is tightened) to the point on the bottom of the cap where the spring touches (this point might be on a special spacer or washer). Subtract this distance form the first measurement (down to the top of the spring washer). This would be the required length of the spacer for zero preload. Add the amount of preload required to determine the length of your spacers. Be sure to put spring washers on both ends of the preload spacer during final assembly and include them in your calculations.

Internal top-out – This type requires you to measure the set length of the fork. Measuring the set length is best accomplished with the cartridge out of the fork; however, it can be done with the fork spring out and the cap unscrewed form the outer tube but still attached to the damping rod. Collapse the fork tube. The set length is measured from the point the spring touches on the top of the cartridge to the point the spring touches on the cap with the rod fully extended. (Sometimes the point the spring touches on the cap is actually a special washer or spacer.) A Tape measure can be put down the fork tube with the spring removed, if you are careful to make sure the tape is resting on the flange when measuring.

Once the set length is recorded, measure the length of the spring and subtract. This would be the required length of the spacer for zero preload. Add the amount of the preload required to determine the length of you spacers. Be sure to include spring washer thickness as they are required on both ends of the preload spacer.