Lots of people think that they need to throw out the whole shock rather than repair it. No way, forks and shocks are expensive! We offer heaps of parts for all sorts of motorcycle suspensions, so there is a very good chance that if we don't already have it on a shelf ready to go, we can get it in for you.

First of all, we need to know what suspension you've got. Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

There is several lists of fork and shock internal parts, sorted into categories by their sub-assemblies. Reference pics are coming soon to make it even clearer!

For some common suspension problems though, you should check the Performance Parts section. Let's say you've found a smashed plastic free piston in your fork. Yes, we do sell a direct replacement, down in the Fork Compression Adjuster Assembly section. But we also sell an alloy free piston kit for those bikes which won't break and works more effectively. Got a worn old high-friction shock piston band? Yes, we can replace it, but we also sell a low-friction metal ring conversion kit. Or if you need to replace your shock bladder cap anyway, why not get a high capacity anodized replacement for more low speed plushness? Having a look in the Performance Parts section can make your suspension even better than new.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have any of the boxes you want to see showing, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We can still probably get you rebuild parts, but you will need to give us a call.

If you happen to own one of the motorbikes listed in our Featured Bikes Pages, we go into detail and break down the common problems and how we fix them. That's your first stop.

But for all the other bikes, and in more general terms, we recommend reading some of our guides so you know what you actually need. Get an idea what is realistic in your budget, especially before you do something silly like talk to a slick conman who tries to take your hard earned in exchange for some expensive hype that isn't effective, by reading this article from Transmoto Magazine which covers the kinds of mods that will give you the best results in your price ballpark.

If you want to see which replacement coilovers, internal conversion kits, as well as stock parts for forks and shocks that Teknik offer, there is a bar at the top of this website that says: FIND YOUR BIKE. Then put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button. Have a browse of what we offer for your bike.
However, if you want to get a better idea of which precise problems are solved with what solutions - please read on.

Here's some of the basics: the nice folks who build your bike don’t know you. They don’t know if you weigh 60 kilos or 120 kilos. They don’t know whether you carry a bunch of gear, or a pillion. They don’t know where or how you like to ride. So they take a best guess at what most people will like, and a test rider helps them tweak the suspension to get near that, so long as it's in budget. So most bikes have some adjustability built into their forks and shocks, meaning owners can get the suspension a bit closer to what they need. But lots of people don't know how to get the most out of them.

So first things first, have you ever adjusted your stock suspension? Try reading the Free Suspension Setup Tips article from Australasian Dirtbike Magazine, so you have a grasp of how your suspension basically works. Unlike in an already heavy car, passenger and luggage weight can make up a massive percent of a total bike mass. So the vast majority of bikes, even the most basic poverty-spec motorcycles, have at least some spring preload adjustment to help cover that.
Check out our Off Road Motorbike Setup Guide on how to check your sag settings. We also have a similar Road Motorbike Setup Guide.

If you have too much sag, and you've already maxed out your preload (or too little sag with no preload), your suspension can be a whole lot better fairly cheaply with a new set of springs for your rider weight. See the "What springs do I need for my weight?" section of these FAQs to get started searching. Read how to Change Your Shock Springs so you don't break yourself and your bike swapping them over too.

Onto the second step of stock suspension. Your stock damping can now make the most of it's stroke because it's sitting at the right height while it's getting riden. No more trying to resist all that compression in the last inch of movement before smacking the bumpstop. Most bikes, especially sports and offroad bikes, have adjustable damping to go with that spring preload. Commonly called clickers, they adjust how strongly the fork or shock will resist pressure caused by the wheel moving up and down. Have a read of the Transmoto Using Your Clickers article to get a better idea of how they effect handling.

Problems all better? Fantastic, enjoy your riding, and keep us in mind when you need to service your stock parts. But if it's still not great, or you want it even better, the third stage of stock suspension is to re-valve the damping internals. Some bikes have compromised suspension designs to begin with, due to budget restraints, keeping older designs, or occasionally strange whims. Learn a little more about different designs in Transmoto's Closed vs Open Chamber Forks article, and there's also some interesting info on motorbike suspension in the KYB vs Showa article.

The biggest problem with stock shocks is that not all of them are serviceable - see the "Is the shock on my bike serviceable?" section of these FAQs for more details. If your shock isn't serviceable, it takes more time and effort to convert it to be repairable, and that costs extra money. All forks are serviceable, but some types require more time and effort than others. Check out our Workshop Services for pricing and details. Please also keep in mind that the prices do not include any parts that need replacing or are being upgraded, it's the cost for our technicians to do the work needed.
Most of the time the stock suspension, with a service and re-valve is the most cost effective mod you can do. It gives a damping curve that is guaranteed to work for your weight and bike, results verified on our suspension dynos, and most of it will be using easy to get stock seals and parts which can be serviced back to new in the future.

Some types of mods can only be applied to some types of suspension - for example our Emulator Valves only work on damper rod forks - so you should use our FIND YOUR BIKE banner up above to find which kind of suspension your bike has, and scroll down for which modification kits we sell for it. If you are a competent DIYer you may be able to install some of these cartridge and piston kits yourself, or we can install the complete kit and dyno it at the same time.

What if you are a serious racer, chasing fractions of a second at each track, or maybe touring is your life and you want premium products with every conceivable adjustability for different adventures? Then the stock suspension can be swapped for complete aftermarket replacement units. We offer Twin Shock Sets for some of the classics, and we also carry a range of very modern electronically adjustable replacement shocks which interface with the stock bike ECU and work much better than the originals - with faster response rates and greater adjustability.

The rest of our aftermarket shocks come in three levels of adjustability:
One Way adjusts both compression and rebound damping at the same time. They are usually a simpler design (such as emulsion shocks with no separating piston or bladder between oil and nitrogen), and are more budget friendly.
Two Way adjusts compression and rebound damping separately using two clickers. They are usually a more complex piggyback or remote reservoir design (with separating piston or bladder between oil and nitrogen often housed in the extra canister). They are more expensive, and have more adjustability.
Three Way adjusts high speed compression, low speed compression and rebound damping separately using three clickers. They are almost always a piggyback or remote reservoir design (with separating piston or bladder between oil and nitrogen often housed in the extra canister). They are the most expensive, but have total adjustability.

If you want to know which of these replacement suspension units fit your bike, please use our FIND YOUR BIKE banner up above to find the list.

Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

There should be a box under the name of your bike which says calculate spring rates. Type in your weight (plus the weight of your riding gear) in kilograms, then click the Calculate button.

Our database will calculate the ideal spring rate you need for your Fork Springs and Shock Springs.
Please note that this rate is just a guide; if the calculator says 5.5, then a 5.4 or a 5.6 is fine. It is a ball park figure.

Scroll down to the Fork Springs section or Shock Springs section in order to see which brands of springs we have that fit that bike, and which rates are in stock now.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have the calculate spring rates box under the title, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We may still get you some springs that will suit - we have thousands of variations of sizes and rates.

If you know which diameter and length you need, have a look at our Fork Spring List for the front, or our Shock Spring List for the rear. Then give us a call and we'll find out the correct rate for your weight and organize them for you.

We offer a few different brands of springs, with different advantages to each.

• Teknik Motorsport - our own home-grown springs are our pride and joy, and they are made to our own specifications, so we offer our lifetime guarantee. We offer them at a very reasonable price, but we only have them in a limited range (mostly just the most popular late model offroad bikes). Some applications need custom spacers cut, and for that reason, they are best for people who are handy with tools and know what they are doing.
• HiCalibre Springs - are imported from the best suppliers in the USA and Europe. They offer a much broader range of springs, covering just about any motorcycle suspension spring you can imagine. Whenever we get custom made one-off springs for an oddball bike, HiCalibre supply them. They are however a little more expensive because they are only manufactured in smaller runs. They are perfect for people who need a special spring for an older or rarer bike.
• Eibach Motorcycle Springs - we are proud to offer a famous name in motorsport, whose premium springs are well known for their light weight and precision. They cost more as a result, and are available for a medium range of bikes (somewhere in size between Teknik and HiCalibre). The shock springs are often painted in bright red so everyone knows you're running something special!
• KYB OEM Motorcycle Springs and Showa OEM Motorcycle Springs - for those people who want the originality and precise fitment of genuine factory parts, we offer a limited range from the two biggest names in Japanese original suspension parts producers.

For many uncommon bikes we will only have one brand of spring available, but some popular models will have multiple different brands available. Which one you choose is up to you - we hope this explanation gives you some insight into what will match your needs and your budget best.

Anytime you open up the Forks or Shocks on your motorcycle, you should at least change the seals and the oil.

Check out our Fork Rebuild Kits if you already know what kind of fork you have, and also our Shock Rebuild Kits if you know that too.

If you don't know what kind of suspension is on your motorbike though, up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

Scroll down, and there should be boxes titled Fork Overhaul Kits and Shock Overhaul Kits. They will list the kits that will fit your bike. Only common suspension systems have pre-made Overhaul Kits ready to go, so if those boxes aren't there don't worry, keep scrolling down, because we sell all the parts needed individually.

If you are repairing your forks, you will need the Fork Seals & Bushes section, so you can get a pair of Oil Seals, Dust Wipers, Outer (Guide) Bushes and Inner (Slide) Bushes. You'll also want to go down to the Tools section for some fork oil and assembly grease. That's the basics covered.

If you are repairing your shock, scroll down to the Shock Seal Case Parts section, so you can get an Oil Seal, Dust Wiper, Shaft Bush, O-Ring and a Rebound Spring or Rubber. All of these things can often be bought pre-assembled with the Seal Case if you want to save time. Remember to see the Tools section for shock oil too, and that's the basics covered.
However, since it's already apart and these common shock parts wear, we also recommend changing the Shock Piston Band and O-Rings that can be found in the Shock Piston Parts section, the Bump Rubber that can be found in the Shock Spring Retainer & Bumper Parts section, and if it is a piggyback style shock, the Nitrogen Gas Bladder that can be found in the Shock Bladder Parts section.

If you find anything broken inside, check out the other sections, because we probably also have that too.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have any of these boxes showing, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We can still probably get you rebuild parts, but you will need to give us a call.

We offer a range of motorcycle tools, and it kind of depends on which bikes you work on and your skill level as a mechanic as to which ones you must have and which ones are just helpful.

Some of the basic, non-suspension specific tools can be found in our Chassis and Engine Tools.

But if you're talking Teknik, you're probably talking suspension, so here are some of the universal tools we recommend you have for a fork rebuild regardless of which type you have:

• Fork Oil Level Tools - you need to set the oil level accurately.
• Fork Seal Drivers - you need to push the seal with even pressure the whole way round or you risk pinching them or having them seat twisted and leak. We sell them in single sizes if you only work on one bike, but would recommend a complete set for any motorcycle workshop.
• Fork Spring Compressor - you need to change fork springs? With only one person? Maybe at the track? With one of these you can.
• Fork Shaft Clamps - you need to hold suspension shafts tightly, but without marking them. If you score up the plating with pliers or grips, your rubber seals and bushes get ripped up, and leak. We sell them in single sizes if you're only doing one job, but would recommend a complete set for any motorcycle workshop.

And now some of the universal tools we recommend you have for a shock rebuild regardless of which type you have:

• Shock Nitrogen Gassing Tools - you need to fill the shock to the right pressure once it's rebuilt. You should get the tools and nitrogen tank if you run a workshop, but it might be easier to take it to a suspension workshop like Teknik if it's just a one off.
• Shock Shaft Clamps - like forks, you need to hold suspension shafts tightly, but without marking them. If you score up the plating with pliers or grips, your rubber seals and bushes get ripped up, and leak. We sell them in single sizes if you're only doing one job, but would recommend a complete set for any motorcycle workshop.
• Shock Spring Compressors - you need to remove and replace the coil spring anytime you are working on a shock, most car spring ones are too large to fit into bike shocks, and you can break bones with coat hanger wire - we've all winced at the videos.
• Shock Seal Bullets - you need to guide the oil seal into the head squarely, no tears or kinks, with the delicate rubber lips sitting evenly. We sell them in single sizes if you only work on one bike, but would recommend a complete set for any motorcycle workshop.

So how do you know which specific size of shaft clamp or seal driver/bullet fits your bike? Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

Scroll down to the bottom, and there should be a box titled Tools. Some of the complete workshop tool kits are in there, but if a single sized tool is listed there, it will work on your forks or shock.

Need a Fork Cap Spanner or Socket? If it's in that list, it will fit your forks. Same thing for Shock Absorber Sockets. There will also be some tools useful for that specific type of suspension; so if your bike has an Air Fork, there will be hand pumps for your bike. Probably gauges and adaptors too.

If you look at them and it seems too complex, we are happy to service your forks and shocks for you. Just fill in our Workshop Booking Form and we'll get back to you with details and costs.

Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

Scroll down, and there should be boxes titled Forks Info and Shocks Info. These sections are full of useful info about your suspension, including the oil grade and the quantity needed for a rebuild.

Once you know which oil you need, have a look at our Fork Suspension Fluids for the front, and our Shock Suspension Fluids for the rear. We keep several brands and different pack sizes to suit single rebuilds all the way up to 205 litre drums for professional suspension workshops.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have the Forks Info or Shocks Info boxes, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We can still possibly find out for you, but you will need to give us a call.

Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

Scroll down, and there should be boxes titled Forks Info and Shocks Info. These sections are full of useful info about your suspension, including the oil grade and the quantity needed for a rebuild.

Once you know which oil you need, have a look at our Fork Suspension Fluids for the front, and our Shock Suspension Fluids for the rear. We keep several brands and different pack sizes to suit single rebuilds all the way up to 205 litre drums for professional suspension workshops.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have the Forks Info or Shocks Info boxes, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We can still possibly find out for you, but you will need to give us a call.

Our Teknik Motorsport motorcycle suspension workshop is open Monday to Friday from 8.30am - 5.00pm (Australian Eastern Standard Time), at Unit 4, 5 Harford Street Jamisontown (Penrith) NSW Australia.

Workshop hours are flexible though, so if you can't make it during those hours, give us a call and we can probably open early or stay back later to fit you in.

If you live too far away to drop your suspension off in person, you can organize to book in your suspension using our workshop booking form, and we will get back to you about your options and the costs involved. Please see our "How do I send my suspension to you?" section here in the FAQs on how to mail your forks and shock to our workshop for servicing.

Most brand name offroad bikes featured sophisticated shock absorbers which are designed to be unscrewed and repaired rather than completely junked. It saves a lot of money and waste, and so long as you change the oil and nitrogen fairly regularly they can last for decades only replacing seals and wear parts.
However, more basic bikes can feature cheap tricks like peening over tubes or crimped ends, which are quick and easy to manufacture but terrible for rebuilding.
As a very quick rule of thumb, most shocks with a schrader (tyre) gas valve somewhere on them are likely to be rebuildable since they have that valve built in for regassing.

Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

Scroll down, and there should be a box titled Shocks Info. These sections are full of useful info about your OEM suspension, including whether or not the shock absorber was designed to be serviced from the factory.

If it says Non-rebuildable: No, then your shock can easily be taken apart, repaired, refilled with oil and regassed with nitrogen. Good as new.
If it says Non-rebuildable: Yes, things are more difficult, but not impossible. The vast majority of those cheap shocks can in fact be machined out and made to use rebuildable parts including welding in a schrader valve port, and that means that your mechanic can then service that same shock easily in the future. It is more complex, and therefore costs more than a basic service for a rebuildable shock, but it can still work out much cheaper than throwing in a complete replacement shock.

See the Shock Servicing & Tuning section of our Workshop Services page for more details on how much we charge for each type of service, or contact us for advice on whether or not you should get your stock shock modified for servicing or whether it works out easier to try one of our adjustable aftermarket shocks.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have the Shocks Info box showing, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We can still possibly find out for you whether your shock is rebuildable, but you will need to give us a call.

This isn't as straightforward as you might think. Damper Rod Forks are easier to work on than Twin Chamber Forks, for example, so take less time for our technicians.
Same thing goes for rear shocks too, some aren't rebuildable from the factory so need to be modified to be serviced, and electronic shocks are more complex than standard ones too. And if your fork or shock hasn't been rebuilt in more than 15 years, it needs a lot more work than one that is regularly serviced.

There is also a big difference between a service and a revalve. A service is taking the suspension unit apart, replacing the parts that are worn, and putting all the stock parts back together with fresh fluids and nitrogen gas. Just as it came new from the factory (but often filled more accurately).
Revalving means we do the same things, but rather than just putting back exactly what your manufacturer thinks will suit most of the riders most of the time, we change the damping rates to suit YOU. Your weight, your riding ability, your terrain, and we dyno test it before and after to make sure it's precise, and we offer a money back guarantee. It is a big difference in the amount of work, as well as the results.
Often we are asked to add performance upgrades like piston or cartridge kits or emulator valves to make a particular suspension design work better - if we are fitting a kit for you, we revalve it all while we are doing that.

If we already have your fork or shock apart for something else, we don't stack other service costs on top for no reason. For example, is your shock apart for a service? Well it needed the spring off for that, so we don't charge you extra if you change shock springs then. If you need clarification on whether or not something will count as an additional cost, please fill out our Workshop Booking Form and one of our techs will go through exactly what you need done and how much it will cost. We are happy to add or subtract work based on your budget and what the priority is. We always aim for maximum enjoyment at minimum cost.

If you happen to have one of our favourite bikes, we offer special complete suspension packages that save you money and give you the best suspension you've ever riden.

But if you have something else, let's find out what kind of suspension your bike has. Up the top of this website is a bar that says: FIND YOUR BIKE

Put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button.

Scroll down, and there should be boxes titled Forks Info and Shocks Info. These sections are full of useful info about your OEM suspension, including your fork design, and whether or not the shock absorber was designed to be serviced from the factory.

Now we know what forks are on your motorcycle, check out the Fork Servicing & Tuning section of our Workshop Services page for more details on how much we charge for each type of service.
Also check out the Shock Servicing & Tuning section.

If you bring us the whole motorbike, we have extra time in removing and refitting the forks and shocks, so check the General Suspension Services section for info on that as well as other things we can do for your bike while it's there.

Please Note: prices listed are for the technician's time and labour, and any parts are an additional cost on top of this.

Unfortunately, if your motorbike doesn't yet have the Forks Info or Shocks Info box showing, then it is one of the thousands of bikes we don't have enough accurate info about yet and so haven't added to our database. Sorry! We can still tell you what it will cost to service, but you will need to give us a call.

"Why is there such a big price difference? You all do the same thing don't you?" Well, sure, in the same way a Ducati Superbike and a Vespa do the same thing.

We have suspension files and specifications going back over 45 years, back to the mid 1980's, giving us a huge depth of experience and expertise to draw upon.

Every setting (that’s what we call a specific combination of shims, pistons, bleeds and springs) that we have ever done we keep on file to refer back to. They are littered with notes of who used it, what they thought, good or bad, and what setting we tried next, if any.

All that, plus the tuners we know in NZ, the UK, several in the US and trackside engineers based in Australia that we talk to regularly and in most cases are lucky enough to call our friends.

Suspension work is the only work we do, so we know all the small tips and cures for each model, and what will be necessary to achieve the level of performance you want. Bikes we've worked on have won championships on and off road, and all that data and feedback tells us where to look for performance on every job, whether it's destined for a podium or for hours of cruising.

We test it all before and after on our suspension dynos to make sure it is exactly right.
So you don’t hand your suspension over the counter for someone to take a wild guess... we give you the suspension you've been dreaming of. We guarantee it, or we'll give you your money back!

I'm sure Gaz is talented at bricklaying, but he might be missing a few things when it comes to motorcycle suspensions.

When we rebuild or revalve your suspension, we totally disassemble the forks and shock, inspecting not just for wear, but for faults and quality control issues of the factory assembly. We do so much suspension work that we know all the small tips and cures for each model, so we can advise you on what modifications (such as damping piston kits or progressive springs) will be necessary to achieve the level of performance you want.

We dyno test every suspension before and after we modify to measure (not just kinda guess) that we are getting the best out it.
All Gaz can advise you on is beer temperature. Granted this is an important measurement, but will not make you go faster or ride smoother.

Determining a suspension setting, in our opinion, is very much up to the interpretation that the suspension tuner makes of the customer’s complaints. There are literally hundreds of ways a pair of forks or shocks can be assembled.

Race teams often revalve many times in one day of testing, chasing the optimum setting. We do this testing with our test riders and then compare against the vast settings bank we have accumulated on our suspension dynos and give you the setting we believe is best suited to your needs. This is a crucial part to our process that not all suspension tuners do - we get exact figures before and after. Measurements, not guesses.

If you get your suspension revalved and you don't like it, we will do it again, or we'll give you your money back.

We also give you a comprehensive set-up booklet to help you fine-tune for particular circumstances and get the most out of your new suspension. Our Off Road Motorbike Setup Guide and our Road Motorbike Setup Guide are full of tips that can help fine tune your riding.

First off, please pressure wash the forks and/or rear shock as fully as possible before removing it from the motorcycle. The crud is just more weight to send, plus it's more time (and more of your money) for us to clean it for you.

Your suspension should be sent to us as a complete assembly. For front forks, remove the front wheel, brakes and axle, plus any speed sensors, etc. Slide the fork tubes out from the steering triple clamps, and send both complete fork legs.
For rear shocks with remote reservoirs, do NOT break any of the oil line connections. Unbolt the lower end of the coilover from the link or swingarm, unbolt the top from the frame, and remove any separate reservoir or assemblies from the bike. Send us the complete pressurized shock assembly with any hydraulic hoses intact.

We offer a unique service for you to send your suspension to our workshop - specifically designed, robust lightweight cardboard packaging for a set of forks and a shock, plus all shipping costs - Australia wide.

For a set price of $95 (including GST), we will send you an empty Suspension Shipping Box (SSB), complete with a return label enclosed. We post the box to you, you attach the return label to the front, put your suspension inside and take it back to your local post office.
It all comes back to our workshop via standard Australia Post (sorry, we don't offer an express service on this special offer), and once your suspension is completed, we ship it back to you in the same storage box. All three postage costs covered for all your suspension assemblies from anywhere in Oz, nice and easy, well protected and fuss free.

Please tell us if your suspension has been leaking! Soggy packages don't work out well for anyone involved, so we'll give you some advice on how to drain things correctly and safely. For any extra help or advice, please contact us.

For parts purchased on our website, freight options and their cost will be calculated and displayed for you automatically in the check out. For international customers, please choose your country first. Then start writing your address and pick the correct autofill option.

We can arrange custom shipping options for very large orders, but you will need to Contact Us first.

If you are in western Sydney we are also for you to come and pick your parts up in person at our Teknik Motorsports Workshop.

If you are sending in your suspension to us for servicing, please see our "How do I send my suspension to you?" section here in the FAQs for more details, including our Suspension Shipping Box deal.

Our website offers the following payment methods:

• Paypal
• Bank Deposit
• AfterPay
• Visa
• Mastercard

We recommend PayPal for our overseas buyers for it's added security features.

In person at our Teknik Suspension Workshop we also accept cash payments.

For our regular business customers, we can arrange credit and regular payment plans depending on your needs. You will need to contact us with your ABN and your email address so we can arrange your login details.