If you happen to own one of the motorbikes listed in our Featured Bikes Pages, we go into detail and break down the common problems and how we fix them. That's your first stop.
But for all the other bikes, and in more general terms, we recommend reading some of our guides so you know what you actually need. Get an idea what is realistic in your budget, especially before you do something silly like talk to a slick conman who tries to take your hard earned in exchange for some expensive hype that isn't effective, by reading this article from Transmoto Magazine which covers the kinds of mods that will give you the best results in your price ballpark.
If you want to see which replacement coilovers, internal conversion kits, as well as stock parts for forks and shocks that Teknik offer, there is a bar at the top of this website that says: FIND YOUR BIKE. Then put the Make, Model and Year of your motorcycle into the dropdowns. Then click the GO button. Have a browse of what we offer for your bike.
However, if you want to get a better idea of which precise problems are solved with what solutions - please read on.
Here's some of the basics: the nice folks who build your bike don’t know you. They don’t know if you weigh 60 kilos or 120 kilos. They don’t know whether you carry a bunch of gear, or a pillion. They don’t know where or how you like to ride. So they take a best guess at what most people will like, and a test rider helps them tweak the suspension to get near that, so long as it's in budget. So most bikes have some adjustability built into their forks and shocks, meaning owners can get the suspension a bit closer to what they need. But lots of people don't know how to get the most out of them.
So first things first, have you ever adjusted your stock suspension? Try reading the Free Suspension Setup Tips article from Australasian Dirtbike Magazine, so you have a grasp of how your suspension basically works. Unlike in an already heavy car, passenger and luggage weight can make up a massive percent of a total bike mass. So the vast majority of bikes, even the most basic poverty-spec motorcycles, have at least some spring preload adjustment to help cover that.
Check out our Off Road Motorbike Setup Guide on how to check your sag settings. We also have a similar Road Motorbike Setup Guide.
If you have too much sag, and you've already maxed out your preload (or too little sag with no preload), your suspension can be a whole lot better fairly cheaply with a new set of springs for your rider weight. See the "What springs do I need for my weight?" section of these FAQs to get started searching. Read how to Change Your Shock Springs so you don't break yourself and your bike swapping them over too.
Onto the second step of stock suspension. Your stock damping can now make the most of it's stroke because it's sitting at the right height while it's getting riden. No more trying to resist all that compression in the last inch of movement before smacking the bumpstop. Most bikes, especially sports and offroad bikes, have adjustable damping to go with that spring preload. Commonly called clickers, they adjust how strongly the fork or shock will resist pressure caused by the wheel moving up and down. Have a read of the Transmoto Using Your Clickers article to get a better idea of how they effect handling.
Problems all better? Fantastic, enjoy your riding, and keep us in mind when you need to service your stock parts. But if it's still not great, or you want it even better, the third stage of stock suspension is to re-valve the damping internals. Some bikes have compromised suspension designs to begin with, due to budget restraints, keeping older designs, or occasionally strange whims. Learn a little more about different designs in Transmoto's Closed vs Open Chamber Forks article, and there's also some interesting info on motorbike suspension in the KYB vs Showa article.
The biggest problem with stock shocks is that not all of them are serviceable - see the "Is the shock on my bike serviceable?" section of these FAQs for more details. If your shock isn't serviceable, it takes more time and effort to convert it to be repairable, and that costs extra money. All forks are serviceable, but some types require more time and effort than others. Check out our Workshop Services for pricing and details. Please also keep in mind that the prices do not include any parts that need replacing or are being upgraded, it's the cost for our technicians to do the work needed.
Most of the time the stock suspension, with a service and re-valve is the most cost effective mod you can do. It gives a damping curve that is guaranteed to work for your weight and bike, results verified on our suspension dynos, and most of it will be using easy to get stock seals and parts which can be serviced back to new in the future.
Some types of mods can only be applied to some types of suspension - for example our Emulator Valves only work on damper rod forks - so you should use our FIND YOUR BIKE banner up above to find which kind of suspension your bike has, and scroll down for which modification kits we sell for it. If you are a competent DIYer you may be able to install some of these cartridge and piston kits yourself, or we can install the complete kit and dyno it at the same time.
What if you are a serious racer, chasing fractions of a second at each track, or maybe touring is your life and you want premium products with every conceivable adjustability for different adventures? Then the stock suspension can be swapped for complete aftermarket replacement units. We offer Twin Shock Sets for some of the classics, and we also carry a range of very modern electronically adjustable replacement shocks which interface with the stock bike ECU and work much better than the originals - with faster response rates and greater adjustability.
The rest of our aftermarket shocks come in three levels of adjustability:
One Way adjusts both compression and rebound damping at the same time. They are usually a simpler design (such as emulsion shocks with no separating piston or bladder between oil and nitrogen), and are more budget friendly.
Two Way adjusts compression and rebound damping separately using two clickers. They are usually a more complex piggyback or remote reservoir design (with separating piston or bladder between oil and nitrogen often housed in the extra canister). They are more expensive, and have more adjustability.
Three Way adjusts high speed compression, low speed compression and rebound damping separately using three clickers. They are almost always a piggyback or remote reservoir design (with separating piston or bladder between oil and nitrogen often housed in the extra canister). They are the most expensive, but have total adjustability.
If you want to know which of these replacement suspension units fit your bike, please use our FIND YOUR BIKE banner up above to find the list.